CHRISTIAN DIOR: DESIGNER OF DREAMS AT THE V&A - FRAGRANCE AND BEAUTY

Christian Dior was a pioneer in the fragrance world, believing no gown was complete without a spritz of perfume. He insisted that the Dior salons were sprayed with his signature fragrance before his shows started, so his clients could benefit from the complete Christian Dior experience. And like Charles Worth, before him, he recognised the importance of gifting fragrance to his loyal Haute Couture customers.  

His heady scents, limited-edition bottles and packaging, plus inspiring fragrance and beauty campaigns by fashion illustrator Rene Gruau, play a pivotal role in the V&A's blockbuster exhibition, Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams and tell the story of the launch of Mis Dior in 1947 and the many more fragrance and beauty developments instigated by the eponymous designer and his successors.

From the inspiring wall of vintage and modern magazine covers depicting Christian Dior Haute Couture, RTW and beauty, to the room dedicated to fragrance and flowers, the V&A's exhibition is an ode to fashion to perfume. 

Cover look: The scarlet Florentine coat by Christian Dior Haute Couture AW53 illustrated by
Rene Bouche for British Vogue January 1954, price 3/6

CHRISTIAN DIOR: DESIGNER OF DREAMS AT THE V&A

How fabulous was the V&A's Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams exhibition?

I visited the show five times during its extended run and each time I saw something more extraordinary or learnt something else about the venerable fashion house. I also enjoyed taking friends to see the exhibition and watching their reactions to this spectacle of fashion, beauty, fragrance and history.

As the show closes, here are a few of my favourite images that highlight the story behind the House of Dior:

Christian Dior in his atelier with model Sylvie, circa 1948 Courtesy of Christian Dior

Christian Dior in his atelier with his leading house model Lucky, circa 1955 Courtesy of Christian Dior

FASHIONED FROM NATURE AT THE V&A

Fashioned from Nature, at the Victoria & Albert Museum, explores the relationship between fashion and nature from the 1600 to present day. It is one of those shows that really demands several visits to truly appreciate the inspiring, innovative and also disturbing and potentially devastating effects of fashion on the environment; all interlaced with a message of hope and a concerted effort to create a brighter future for the clothing industry and the consumer. 

Speaking at the opening of the show, curator Edwina Ehrman, explained that, 'I've been a curator for over 30 years and I've always wanted to do an exhibition that interacts with nature. Everything we wear, and have always worn, comes from the earth. 

'I had a sense that we are at a tipping point,' continued Ehrman, 'And I felt that the exhibition needed to reflect that and to link the past, present and future.' 

The mix of over 300 pieces, includes early 1700's embroideries, intricate couture from Paul Poiret, Alix (Madame Grès) and Christian Dior, revolutionary designs by Katharine Hamnett and Vivienne Westwood, plus pioneering modern-day items by Stella McCartney, Calvin Klein and G-Star RAW. 

With the focus on how each exhibit has been produced, the exhibition sets out to explore what we can learn from the fashion practises of the past and how innovative new fabrics, such as mycelium leather, derived from mushrooms, and grape leather can be utilised in the future.

'This is the first exhibition to put fashion sustainability in this context,' said Tristram Hunt, Director of the V&A, at the show opening, 'It brings together both exquisite and unsettling pieces from the V&A collection, including Vita Sackville-West's beautiful embroidered cape, which is my favourite exhibit.'

Drawn from Nature: The monkeys decorating this fashionable waistcoat were copied from 

illustrations in the Comte de Buffon's multi-volume encyclopedia Natural History, 1749-88. 

Man’s embroidered waistcoat with a pattern of 

macaque monkeys, silk and linen, France, 1780–89 

Image: Vee Speers © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Woven silk train for an evening dress, France or Britain, c.1897-1905

Image: Vee Speers © V&A

AMANDA WAKELEY AW17 COLLECTION

British fashion designer Amanda Wakeley is well known for her fluid evening wear, sharp 
tailoring and her love of luxury fabrics. 

For this season, the designer has relaxed her tailored silhouettes and created a sports-luxe collection, featuring many of her trademark details, such as generously tasseled belts, obi wraps and draping.

Amanda Wakeley's AW17 moodboard illustrates the references that have inspired her latest designs and she describes her muse for AW17 as being, 'Born French and of Japanese descent.'

'The Wakeley woman's AW17 style is distinctly Parisian,' continues the designer, 'She translates rich, cultural references of her Japanese heritage into a sophisticated eclecticism, whilst drawing influence from the indigenous Ainu tribe, whose storied culture has captured her.'

The Amanda Wakeley AW17 Collection moodboard

ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE: THE MAGIC IN THE MUSE

Well-known for his hard-hitting provocative images, the American photographer Robert Mapplethorpe (1946-1989), was also an accomplished portrait photographer. According to the photographer, 'I went into photography, because it seemed like a perfect vehicle for commenting on the madness of today's existence.'

A significant collection of Mapplethorpe's images of musicians, artists and well-known faces from the 70's and 80's can be seen at Robert Mapplethorpe, The Magic in the Muse, at The Bowes Museum in Barnard Castle, Co Durham - but hurry, the exhibition closes on Sunday 24th April 2016.

The large-scale graphic black and white images of the photographer's close friend and collaborator Patti Smith, plus shots of Andy Warhol, David Hockney, Iggy Pop and more, are all on loan from ARTIST ROOMS, a collection of contemporary art acquired for the nation by Tate and the National Galleries of Scotland in 2008. 

Patti Smith by Robert Mapplethorpe, 1975

ARTIST ROOMS Tate and National Galleries of Scotland. Acquired jointly through The d'Offay Donation with assistance from the National Heritage Memorial Fund and the Art Fund 2008 © Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation

CHRISTMAS SHOPPING AT BICESTER VILLAGE

With only a few more days to go until Christmas, I headed to Bicester Village early yesterday morning in search of some last minute gifts for family and friends. Living locally, I've learnt to time my visits to the designer retail village with military precision to avoid the crowds - always getting there before the official opening time and enjoying a calming peppermint tea at Soho House Farmshop before hitting the stores.

Chiltern Railways' recent opening of Bicester Village station has been a great boost for both the retail village and the area, as it has helped ease the congestion at Bicester North station, the original hub for the retail outlet shoppers arriving both from London and Birmingham. The new station brings visitors straight to the village from Marylebone in 46 minutes and I was invited to experience the service first hand at the recent opening of the station.

As a regular commuter from Bicester North to Marylebone, it was a real treat being pampered with a Champagne lunch onboard the train, instead of sandwiches from the refreshments trolley. It's a speedy service to the village and there's a relaxing lounge at Bicester Village station, that's more like a corner of a Ralph Lauren store, than a station waiting room, with evocative black and white prints on the walls, fresh flowers and coffee table books to flick through while waiting for the train to London.

Speaking at the opening of the new station, Desiree Bollier, Chief Executive of Value Retail Management (the company that owns Bicester Village) confirmed, 'This isn't your average station waiting room, but it's the entry point to Bicester Village. We felt it needed the same attention to detail that has fuelled our progress for the last 20 years and that lies at the heart of everything we do.'

The snow machine in full swing at the recent opening of
Chiltern Railways' Bicester Village station, bringing shoppers straight to the heart of the retail village
from Marylebone Station in London in under an hour

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: SAVAGE BEAUTY AT THE V&A

I've seen Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty at the V&A three times and I'm hoping to get to the show once more before it closes on 2nd August 2015. It's such an exciting show and I've discovered something new each time I've visited.

Savage Beauty has been described as Alexander McQueen's homecoming and we are lucky to have such an amazing exhibition on our doorstep.

Here's an edited version of the speech the V&A's Senior Curator of Fashion, Claire Wilcox, made at the Press opening of the exhibition:

'Alexander McQueen was one of the most influential designers of his generation. His radical and fearless vision changed the way we look at fashion. He provoked with his bumster trousers, he astonished with his dresses made from hand painted glass and razor clam shells, he shocked with his powerful and spectacular catwalk shows that were characterised by a love of storytelling.

Although bold and subversive with his ideas, everything McQueen did was rooted in craftsmanship of the highest level. As you probably know the original version of Savage Beauty took place at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in 2011. It was brilliantly curated by Andrew Bolton, Curator of the Costume Institute, who is also a consultant curator on this exhibition.   

Portrait of Alexander McQueen, 1997. Photographed by Marc Hom
© Marc Hom/Trunk Archive

Q&A: EDWINA EHRMAN, CURATOR OF WEDDING DRESSES: 1775- 2014 AT THE V&A

As the V&A's spectacular Wedding Dresses 1775-2014 exhibition comes to a close, the curator Edwina Ehrman discusses some of the highlights of the show and reveals what she wore to her own wedding.

Please describe your wedding dress - did you wear a white dress?

I did - I got married in 1976 and, in the end, I wore a Liberty's wedding dress. It was a classic mid -'70's design – so, a high neck, a pin-tuck front, big balloon transparent sleeves and quite a full skirt, plus a train. The bit that made me really feel like a bride was the train. It changed me completely - it was quite transforming.I had a headdress and a veil and I hated the headdress. It was very much the era of the headdress and looking back, it was absolutely vile. Weddings now are very different, because the bride usually has complete control and often the groom, too, due to the financial aspect. A wedding is something that the bride and groom will plan together now. I was completely reliant on my parents to fund the wedding.

1970's Style: Chiffon velvet and machine-made lace 'Faye Dunaway' dress by Thea Porter.
Designed for Susanne Trill when she married James Elliot in Lincoln on 21st March 1970

Wool dress with Celtic scrollwork designed by Jean Muir for Pamela Colin's
marriage to Lord Harlech in 1969

Q&A WITH SWEET THEATRE FOUNDER SALLY WOOD

Here's an interview with Sally Wood, the founder of Sweet Theatre, that I wrote for Harper's Bazaar's website. Love her Shakespearean Leading Ladies chocolate bars:

Q&A WITH SALLY WOOD

The Sweet Theatre chocolatier, theatre producer, actress and wife of a Rolling Stone gives Bazaar a look into her life

BY LOTTIE JOHANSSON 18 DECEMBER 2014

Picture courtesy of Matt Crockett

As well as working on a new musical of Jackie and touring with her husband Ronnie Wood, Sally launched her highly successful Sweet Theatre range of chocolates at Harvey Nichols last year. A result of her love of baking and Shakespeare, the chocolate bars are named after the Bard’s leading ladies, here she tells us all about them...

When did your passion for baking start?
I lived in the home economics room at secondary school. I had a wonderful teacher called Mrs Adams who taught me all about baking and how to decorate cakes. I was immediately hooked!

Can you remember the first thing you baked and was it a success?
It was a Christmas cake for a school competition; I must have been about 13. I just kept icing more and more silver trees on it and won first prize - possibly for the ‘most trees on a cake’!  I’ve still got a photo of it.

What was the catalyst for launching Sweet Theatre?
I’ve gifted a lot of bakes over the years and eventually started to wonder if I could produce something with a longer shelf life. I worked on the chocolate bars for fun originally, but decided to take them more seriously when they got such a positive reaction.

Here are some festive chocolates treats to try from a recent post for Harper's Bazaar. Created by Sally Wood of Sweet Theatre and international chef, Lawrence Otterburn, the recipes are all inspired by Shakespeare's leading ladies. You can find Sweet Theatre at Harvey Nichols and at www.sweettheatre.com:

SALLY WOOD’S SHAKESPEAREAN CHRISTMAS TREATS

The Sweet Theatre founder and chef Lawrence Otterburn create five mouth-watering recipes exclusively for Bazaar

BY LOTTIE JOHANSSON 18 DECEMBER 2014

Juliet's white chocolate, cranberry and chestnut fudge. All pictures courtesy of Matt Crockett.

No food is as synonymous with Christmas and celebrations as chocolate. Here Sally Wood, founder of the Sweet Theatre chocolate company and chef Lawrence Otterburn, share five delicious festive recipes created exclusively for Harper's Bazaar.

Juliet’s White Chocolate, Cranberry and Chestnut Fudge

Prep time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
Cooling time: 3 hours in fridge
Serves: 20–24 pieces

Ingredients
200g Sweet Theatre Juliet white chocolate (broken into pieces)
350g golden caster sugar
30g unsalted butter
Pinch of salt
125ml evaporated milk
1 tsp vanilla extract
50g dried cranberries
50g roast chopped chestnuts
Icing sugar to decorate

Method
1. Place sugar, butter salt and evaporated milk into a large solid based pan (copper or Le Creuset are best) and heat gently until everything has dissolved.
2. Increase heat and bring to the boil, stirring constantly, for around 5 minutes (it should start to reach a soft ball stage which you can check by dropping a little into a glass of cold water or using a sugar thermometer).
3. Take your fudge mixture off the heat and stir in chocolate and vanilla extract until smooth.
4. Leave for 5 minutes and fold in cranberries and roast chestnuts.
5. Pour into a large flat silicone or tin tray and chill in fridge until set, you could also use greased baking tray or individual silicone chocolate moulds to make single pieces.
6. Cut into 20-24 pieces and sprinkle with icing sugar to serve.

Q&A WITH LAURENCE DACADE OF RAYNE

I spent a lovely morning with Nick Rayne and Laurence Dacade of Rayne at London Fashion Week recently. Here's the Q&A with Laurence that I wrote for Harper's Bazaar's website. I'll be posting my interview with Nick Rayne and lots more images very soon:

Q&A WITH LAURENCE DACADE OF RAYNE

The designer and committed anglophile talks footwear, British heritage and stepping into the future

BY LOTTIE JOHANSSON 18 DECEMBER 2014

Picture courtesy of Rayne

As the talented French footwear designer introduces her second collection for Rayne, Laurence Dacade discusses the relaunch of the quintessentially British luxury brand with Harper’s Bazaar. Originally launched in 1885 by Henry and Mary Rayne, the brand has collaborated with designers Roger Vivier and André Perugia, and worked closely with British couturiers such as Norman Hartnell and Hardy Amies in the 1950s and 1960s. The shoes have been worn by an enviable line-up of famous women, including Elizabeth Taylor, Brigitte Bardot and Queen Elizabeth II, who wore Rayne designs at both her wedding and coronation. Today, the brand is run by the founders’ great-grandson Nick Rayne, who re-introduced it in 2013 after a 20-year absence from the market.

Were you very familiar with the Rayne brand before being appointed as designer?
When Nick originally showed me the Rayne archive, I realised that I had many images of the shoes on my wall and vintage footwear in my own archive. I buy vintage shoes because I like the design and not the label, so all these things came together when we met. I loved the history of the brand and I also loved that it was an English story, which sounded so exotic to me.

THE SECRET HISTORY OF THE HANDBAG

Here's a must-have for all handbag aficionados! 

Discover the provenance of the Hermes Kelly, Chanel 2.55 and Fendi Baguette, plus an impressive line-up of historical and modern designs, in Meredith Etherington-Smith's latest book, The Secret History of the Handbag.

The author expertly leads us on a visual journey of the rise of the handbag, highlighting the social history of the bag and revealing many lesser-known facts en route, including that Leonardo da Vinci conceptualised the prototype for a messenger-style bag in c.1497.

Meredith Etherington-Smith worked as an editor at Harper's & Queen, Paris Vogue and Town & Country, and has written several books, including a biography of Salvador Dali and Vanities: The Golden Age of Necessaires and Minaudieres. She has edited Christie's Magazine since the 1990's.

You can view my piece on The Secret History of the Handbag for harpersbazaar.co.uk here and read my Q&A with Meredith Etherington-Smith, below. 

Enduring style icon JacquelineKennedy Onassis (1929-1994) at Heathrow airport with her eponymous Gucci Jackie bag, 1971 Picture courtesy of Mary Evans Picture Library/Interfoto Agentur

THE INDUSTRY INTERVIEW

Many thanks to Harriet Bowe, Features Editor of The Industry London, for doing this Q&A with me. It was fun to reflect on past work experiences...

MEMBER INTERVIEW WITH LOTTIE JOHANSSON

Freelance editor, consultant and blogger, Lottie Johansson has worked for every fashion publication worth knowing, including a considerable number of the fashion industry’s most prestigious titles. Honing her skills at the likes of Vogue, Marie Claire and Drapers, Lottie has carved out an illustrious career – putting her in touch with many Industry members along the way. She’s also just joined the British Society of Magazine Editors. Here the brand new Industry member tells us more.

With over 15 years experience, what’s been your biggest highlight so far?

There have been so many highlights over the years, but I really enjoyed working at Condé Nast. Firstly, as fashion and beauty editor at Brides and then as executive fashion and beauty editor at Vogue, where editor-in-chief Liz Tilberis and publishing director Dick Shortway appointed me. I worked closely with both the editorial and commercial teams at Vogue, which I found really interesting. I also styled a lovely shoot with photographer, Arthur Elgort in New York and inadvertently sold a page of advertising at the fashion trade show Igedo in Dusseldorf – my one and only experience of selling space.

LONDON FASHION WEEK: AZZA FAHMY FOR MATTHEW WILLIAMSON AW14 JEWELLERY COLLABORATION

British fashion supremo, Matthew Williamson, showcased his second fine jewellery collaboration with the Egyptian luxury jewellery designer, Azza Fahmy, at his 70’s-inspired AW14 London Fashion Week show. The high-energy collection was presented in front of a star-studded audience, including Poppy Delevingne, Olivia Palermo, Cat Deeley and Elisa Sednaoui.

Here's my review of the collection for July issue of Harper's Bazaar Arabia, which includes quotes from Matthew Williamson and Azza Fahmy on gifting for Eid and Ramadan. I've also included my full interview with the collaboration team.

ISABELLA BLOW: FASHION GALORE!

I loved the Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore! exhibition at Somerset House so much that I saw the show three times - twice when it opened last autumn and again during last month's London Fashion Week held at the same opulent venue.

Sadly the exhibition closed its doors today and I'm sure if the show had been granted an extended run I would have found my way back to Somerset House again for a final peek...

The reason the show resonated so well with me wasn't just because Isabella Blow (1958 - 2007) was such a colourful and flamboyant figure at fashion shows and associated fashion events for so many years, it was because of her collection of much loved and often well-worn clothes and hats, many complete with cigarette burns, that told such a powerful story of a life lived through clothes.

Isabella Blow, 1997 

© Mario Testino 

PREVIEW OF THE AZZA FAHMY FOR MATTHEW WILLIAMSON AW14 JEWELLERY COLLECTION

As London Fashion Week fast approaches, Matthew Williamson and the luxury Egyptian jewellery house, Azza Fahmy, are putting the finishing touches to their second jewellery collaboration. The contemporary jewellery collection will be unveiled at Matthew Williamson's AW14 catwalk show on Sunday evening at the magnificent One Great George Street.

You can read all about the collaboration in my exclusive post for Harper's Bazaar, plus read additional quotes from the designers and see more image below.

The Azza Fahmy for Matthew Williamson AW14
Jewellery Collection mood board

VINTAGE CHRISTMAS TREE BROOCHES

It’s Christmas Eve and I’ve just unearthed my vintage diamante Christmas tree brooch, that I reach for every year when I start preparing the feast of all feasts.

Wearing something so beautiful and extravagant always gets me in a Christmas mood and adds a bit of glamour to stuffing the turkey and peeling endless spuds. I forgot to put the brooch on one year and my daughter quickly reminded me, so wearing it has become as much of a festive tradition in our house as assembling my late parents’ 1950’s Christmas lantern and decorating the tree with vintage decs.

Happy Vintage Christmas!
Photo credit

STRATTON AUDLEY CHRISTMAS BARN

If you're still looking for some last minute gifts, head to the Stratton Audley Christmas Barn for a unique line-up of Christmas presents and a lovely day out in rural Oxfordshire. For today only, there's the added bonus of a festive Beer & Sausage Festival, in aid of Save the Children. Santa will also be there in his Grotto and a traditional Punch & Judy, plus friendly farm animals from Ark Farm.

Festive gifts and homeware

AZZA FAHMY FOR MATTHEW WILLIAMSON JEWELLERY COLLECTION SS14

Take a look at my post for Harper's Bazaar on the launch of the 10-piece jewellery collection by Azza Fahmy for Matthew Williamson: Harper's Bazaar/Latest

Showcasing at the Matthew Williamson SS14 catwalk show at London Fashion Week on Sunday, The Azza Fahmy for Matthew Williamson Jewellery Collection will be available from Spring 2014 exclusively at the Matthew Williamson flagship store in London and Azza Fahmy boutiques.

The collaboration between the Egyptian luxury jewellery house Azza Fahmy and leading British fashion designer Matthew Williamson highlights the synergy between both brands and their love of global cultural- and travel references.  

The Azza Fahmy for Matthew Williamson SS14 Jewellery Collection moodboard,
highlighting the organcic stack rings and nature-inspired collars

WANSTEAD VINTAGE FASHION & BROCANTE FAIR - JULY 2013

I spent a lovely day on Saturday at the Wanstead Vintage Fashion & Brocante Fair. There was a great mix of stallholders selling fashion, beauty products, homeware and artefacts from predominately the 1920's through to the 1960's.  The fair was well worth visiting and I spent too much! It's a treat to find a fair that consistently offers genuine vintage pieces, rather than the usual line-up of retro and crafts that so often masquerade as vintage.

To celebrate the third anniversary of the fair, the organiser Cary Whitley of LoveVintage, had booked Ultrasound, a 50-strong choir specialising the Rockin' 50's to entertain everyone, plus vintage hair and make-up specialists, Candypout, as seen on Kirsty's Vintage Home on Channel 4.

There was a real buzz around the old church hall with many of the regular stallholders offering seasonal finds, such as glamorous cat's eye sunglasses and spectacles, elegant parasols and pressed glass decanters for al fresco dining. Newcomer Graham Leonard's collection of beautiful perfume bottles also proved a huge attraction. He reported selling several vintage fragrance bottles by, amongst others, Chanel, Coty and Worth, plus a rare porcelain Empire Sphinx with 1/4oz Cabriole perfume from the Elizabeth Arden 1979 Palais de Versaille Christmas Collection.

As always the Vintage Cafe was a popular stop-off. It was a real treat to sit outside in the sunshine with friends, sipping tea from a bone china cup and listening to the choir sing...happy days!

Vintage beaded bags and 50's cat's eye frames from LoveVintage